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Dining Review: The Globe Bar and Grill

Late lunch at The Globe, a new restaurant in Larchmont

(March 10, 2003) Once again, Larchmont welcomes a promising new restaurant: The Globe Bar and Grill, rubbing elbows with venerable Lusardi's on Palmer Avenue. The handsomely renovated space, divided into a main front dining room and a large back room with tables and bar, is a trendy, fun addition to Larchmont's dining scene.

Globe owner Claudio Gottardo, left, and Chef Daniel Scovotti

Owner Claudio Gottardo, a native of the Lake Como area of Italy, seemed a bit stunned last week at his restaurant's swift success. "We can't believe how busy we are already," he told the Gazette. Open since mid-January, The Globe already bustles most nights of the week. On a recent Sunday evening, the dining room was packed, and a party of five with a 7:30 reservation had to wait 45 minutes for a table. The wait was pleasant, because The Globe's spacious bar area, convivial with multiple t.v. monitors and rich wood, is comfortable, the drinks generous and the bartenders amiable. We hope the mild disorganization observed at the door, including glacial coat checking and the afore-mentioned late seating, are simply birthing pains and will soon disappear.

The Globe may be in its infancy, but Chef Daniel Scovotti is obviously no novice in the kitchen. His Italian-inspired "American grill food" pleases, with fresh, high-quality ingredients, lively sauces, and attractive but unfussy presentation.

Malpeque oysters, a special one evening, were startlingly fine, redolent of the sea, lasciviously fresh and simply served on the half-shell. The crab cakes, served with a spicy mayonnaise, were flavorful and crabby, with just enough breading to hold them together. Tuna tartare niçoise, a more original take on the ubiquitous raw tuna appetizer, was very fresh, sushi-quality tuna served with classic salade niçoise ingredients like capers, olives, chives, French stringbeans, potatoes and a tomato anchovy vinaigrette. Grilled octopus, atop a warm salad of cipolline onions, watercress, radish and fingerling potatoes, was cooked just right, tender but still pleasingly chewy. A simple dish of prosciutto and parmigiano melds good quality prosciutto di Parma with shaved cheese and mâche, a sharp-tasting green. Among the appetizers, only the black pepper calamari failed to impress. Billed as "lightly fried," it was soggy and flavorless.

Appetizers, soups and salads range from $5 for an assortment of olives to $12 for a ceviche salad.

Oven-grilled tuna, pictured at left, is served with lobster, leek and wild mushroom hash, drizzled with truffle essence. It was a hit both times members of our party tried it, the high-quality tuna rich and full-flavored, although cooked a bit more than the promised "medium rare." The vegetarian at our table loved the grilled vegetable platter, dubbing it "fresh and not boring." A standout main course was the rosemary skewered shrimp, the shellfish tender inside and crusty outside, served on a bed of grilled baby artichokes and roast potatoes, with a tomato anchovy vinaigrette. Ossobuco with gremolata is a braised veal shank, served in a deep bowl with vegetables and lemon zest. This dish, which can be pedestrian, if comforting, is deeply satisfying at The Globe. Gremolata, a piquant sauce made from garlic, lemon and parsley, brings out the richness of the meat because of its contrasting tartness.

If you're looking for something a bit lighter, try The Globe's authentic Italian-style pizzas. These delicacies, baked in an elaborate wood-burning brick oven, have crisp crusts and a perfect blend of cheeses, sauces and other ingredients. No gloppy slabs of mozzarella, no oozing stuffed crusts here.

According to Claudio Gottardo, the most popular main course at The Globe is the steak frites, a grilled hanger steak served wtih a watercress salad and garlic French fries. Various side dishes are available à la carte, including the excellent sautéed spinach, broccoli rabe, beets and roasted potatoes. You can even get a burger, on house-made foccacia or a kaiser roll. House-made pastas include penne al pomodoro, lobster ravioli, and pappardelle porcinelle.

Globe manager Leonardo Playa

Only one of our party had room for dessert, white chocolate mousse with Frangelico crème brulée. It was underwhelming, lacking any intensity of flavor. Gelato and sorbets are on offer, including interesting flavors like passion fruit and tangerine.

The Globe has an interesting selection of dessert wines and after-dinner drinks, including three kinds of grappa. Its wine list is extensive and varied, and manager Leonard Playa boasts a wine cellar holding over 2500 bottles. "We have selections from all over the globe," he said, "In all price ranges. We have wines from Chile, New Zealand, Spain, Italy, and of course California and France." Lately, he said, he has noticed a slight drop in orders of French wine, perhaps reflecting pre-war tensions. "We have a lot of French customers, though," he said, "And many people come from all over the area." Owner Gottardo said many customers of his other restaurant in Bedford are making the trek south to try The Globe.

Come spring, look for al fresco dining at The Globe. The floor-to-ceiling front windows are actually large doors which can be fully opened, turning the main dining room into an open-air space.

Main courses on the printed menu range in price from $9.50 for the burger to $29.50 for the porterhouse steak.

 

The Globe Bar and Grill 1879 Palmer Avenue Larchmont, NY 10538 914.833.8600 globegrill@aol.com