Please, Forget the Can… Mushroom Soup Concentrate

(April 6, 2006)

Beth asked Lauren:
Dear Lauren,
I have your books and have watched you on television and I really admire your "from scratch" stance, when it comes to many of the dishes that you cook and teach. I have a question about recipes that call for "canned cream of mushroom soup." My mother always made, each Thanksgiving, the green bean casserole with canned cream of mushroom soup and, although I always enjoyed it when young, I hesitate making it for my children. (That stuff in the can looks gross, don't you think?) Anyway, I was wondering if you have some kind of "from scratch" alternative to canned soup, that's just as easy (convenient) to use, in recipes that call for that kind of thing. I've never seen a "homemade" version and I don't know if there is such a thing. Thanks for taking time to answer my (what I fear) is a silly question.

Lauren says...
Beth, you've asked a perfectly legitimate question for which I have an absolutely delectable answer! YES, I have written a recipe for a really fabulous cream of mushroom soup "concentrate" that can be used instead of the canned version. Actually, I created this recipe recently, after watching three different television cooking show hosts use canned cream of mushroom soup in their recipes. After that, I knew it was finally time to provide a delicious, homemade version.

This was the plan: When I first set out to make this mushroom soup "concentrate" I was determined to come up with an extra delicious recipe that, once it was made and stored, could be as easy to use as opening up a can, thus could be used in any recipe calling for the canned version. I also thought it made sense to make a mixture that could be reconstituted and used as delicious gravy for roast chicken, meatloaf and/or mashed potatoes. So, in order to make a mushroom soup "concentrate" with the earthiest flavor and the deepest color, I decided to use a large amount of dried porcini mushrooms (also called "cepes"), because the liquid left after reconstituting them gave the "concentrate" the most intense mushroom flavor. (Although dried porcinis are on the pricy side, you'll get more mushrooms for your money at a place like Costco. There, you'll be able to buy a large bag, enclosed in a see-through plastic cylinder, for a very fair price.) Then, for the freshest texture, I used coarsely chopped fresh mushrooms. And, even though this recipe is called "cream" of mushroom soup," I wanted to be able to make it with either nonfat milk or light cream, which I did, and both worked great. The results: My husband, Jon, a self-proclaimed mushroom soup lover (he even likes the canned kind…) he said that this concentrate made best mushroom soup he'd ever had! To make gravy was as easy as making soup. I just stirred enough stock (you can use water) into the thickened mushroom soup concentrate while gently reheating it, until I was satisfied with the texture. And, it was perfect with our roast capon! Plus, since the recipe doubles perfectly, you can make a large batch, divide it into 1 1/4 cup increments (the size of a standard can) and store it in the freezer. Then, all you'd do is thaw it out and reconstitute it, as directed, in the recipe I've provided. The point: If you love mushroom soup, mushroom gravy, or any of those casserole dishes that ask for "canned cream of mushroom soup," my homemade version, which is thick, intensely flavored and generously textured with mushrooms, will prove to be well worth the small investment of time required to make it. So, now that you know you can finally say "farewell" to canned mushroom soup forever, read below to taste the delicious difference!

Please, Forget the Can… Mushroom Soup Concentrate

Yield: about 3 2/3 cups concentrate,
For about 6 ½ cups of soup; can be doubled

If you like that stuff in a can, you'll love my homemade version of the following mushroom soup "concentrate." Whether making soup or gravy, all you do is reconstitute the concentrate, over gentle heat, with enough added liquid (stock, water, milk or light cream) until you've reached the desired consistency. When satisfied with the texture, bring up the temperature to piping hot, and you're good to go. See my notes at the end of this recipe, about making a larger batch for freezing. So, now you can forget the can and truly taste the mushrooms! Enjoy.

Special Equipment
• Heavy-bottomed 2-quart saucepan

Ingredients:
• 1 ½ cups dried porcini mushrooms
• 2 cups boiling water
• 1 teaspoon concentrated beef bouillon paste, like "Better than Bouillon" (optional)
• 1 cup light cream or milk (even nonfat)
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 5 tablespoons butter
• 1 large shallot, minced
• 10 ounces button or cremini mushrooms, wiped clean and coarsely chopped
• 4 tablespoons unbleached, all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• To reconstitute: per 1 ½ cups of the assembled concentrate: Add about 1 cup of either stock or water (choose from vegetable, chicken, beef stock) or mix milk and stock.

1) To reconstitute the dried mushrooms: Place the dried porcinis in a bowl and pour the boiling water over them. Let the mushrooms reconstitute for 10 to 15 minutes, or until supple. Lift the, now supple, mushrooms out of the flavorful liquid and retain 1 generous cup of mushrooms and 1 strained cup of the liquid. Chop the mushrooms coarsely and set them aside next to the reserved liquid. Save any remaining reconstituted mushrooms and liquid to use in another recipe.

2) To assemble the soup concentrate: Measure the cream or milk and pour ¼ cup of it into another small bowl. Stir the cornstarch into the smaller amount of milk and set it next to the reserved porcini liquid, for now. Melt the butter in a 2-quart saucepan and, when hot and bubbling, add the shallots and chopped fresh mushrooms. Cook the vegetables, over high heat, until the shallots are softened, very fragrant and the mushrooms give off their liquid.

Stir the flour into the wet vegetables and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Stir the larger amount of milk into the pot along with the porcini liquid and chopped porcinis and bring the mixture to a brisk bubble, over medium heat. Stir in the bouillon paste, if using. Reduce the heat to low and cook for about 5 minutes, until thickened. Give the cornstarch mixture a good stir and pour it into the pot. Stir the mixture as it comes to a simmer, add the thyme and let the soup base cook, stirring frequently, uncovered, for 5 minutes (the soup will become thicker and will take on a slight sheen).

Season the soup base with salt and pepper to taste, then remove from the stove and pour into another bowl. Place a sheet of plastic wrap directly on top of the mushroom soup concentrate (to prevent a skin from forming), and let the mixture cool. Refrigerate or freeze for future use. If planning to freeze to use in a recipe that calls for "canned" mushroom soup, divide the concentrate into 1 1/4 cups increments, since that's the size of a standard can.

3) To reconstitute the concentrate, to use as soup: To each cup of soup base, add 3/4 cup of any kind of stock or just use water. After reheating, if still too thick, add a bit more liquid (either stock, light cream, milk or water).

Timing is Everything:

• The mushroom soup concentrate can be made, cooled and stored in the refrigerator for 5 days, well covered. Alternatively, it can be frozen for 6 months. To thaw, leave in the refrigerator overnight. Reheat gently, but fully, adding as much stock, milk or water, as needed to reach the desired consistency.

About freezing the mushroom soup concentrate: If you make the concentrate and freeze it, don't be concerned if, after thawing, it looks somewhat curdled. This will correct itself, once fully reheated. I would suggest, however, for the most homogenous texture, after thawing, when a recipe suggests that you use the canned soup "straight" (without liquid) you should stir the measured concentrate, over low heat, with a minimum of ¼ cup liquid (or even crème fraiche), until the texture evens out. And, for best color retention, I always add an extra dose of fresh thyme, when reheating, since freezing seems to muddy its green color and quiet its delicate flavor.

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Lauren Groveman recipes have been featured in many national magazines and local newspapers. Her books "The I love to Cook Book: Rediscovering the Joy of Cooking for Family and Friends" and "Lauren Groveman's Kitchen, Nurturing Food for Family and Friends" are available through Amazon.com. Lauren hosts an hour-long, "live" weekly radio show, Food Family & Home "Matters," on 1460 WVOX.

For in depth information on Lauren Groveman as a writer, teacher, TV & radio host, as well as her recipes and cooking tips visit her website at www.laurengroveman.com

Lauren is a Larchmont resident. She is happily married and blessed with three wonderful children.