Sautéed Fresh Corn With Onions and Sweet Peppers

(June 22, 2006)

Jane asked Lauren:
...submit your question to Lauren!

My family loves fresh corn and I make it often. Lately, though, I've noticed that instead of eating the cooked corn directly off the cobs, every person in my family has been choosing to cut the kernels off the cobs at the table. Although, I love to eat summer-fresh corn the "old-fashioned" way, I will admit that I also find it's easier on my teeth to eat corn when off the cob. Anyway, the point of this letter is to ask if you have a recipe that uses fresh corn that's cut off their cobs before cooking. Not just for the sake of my family's teeth, but also because my table is an absolute mess after dinner, covered with stray pieces of corn. Also, is there a "right way" to remove corn from their cobs, as I tried to do this twice and both times I had lots of hard crunchy pieces of the cob intermingled with my bowl of corn?

Lauren says...

Jane, that's exactly what happened in my family! When asked, my husband and kids said they were simply tired of getting corn stuck in between their teeth at the table. So, after those little yellow nuggets finished shooting all over the place, my table (and floor) ended up as messy as (I'm sure) yours gets! So now, I usually always cut the corn off the cobs before cooking. Actually, doing this allows for a lot more choices "recipe-wise." You can either sauté the corn alone in butter or a cold-pressed oil (or a combination), either with an assortment of aromatics (onions, sweet and/or hot peppers, garlic), and/or spices and herbs (curry, cumin, oregano, chives, cilantro, flat-leaf Italian parsley), or simmer the corn with some crushed tomatoes and/or sautéed mushrooms.

Yes, there's a right way and a wrong way to cut corn off the cobs:
Cutting too close to the cob leaves you more likely to end up with pieces of the hard, tasteless cob in the bowl. You also miss out on the real "prize" when eating corn this way, which is to enjoy the natural "creamy" substance that sits just beneath each kernel of corn, in between itself and the cob.

The best way get less cob and more corn in the bowl, is to first place a bowl (preferably wide and somewhat low) on your work surface. Next, stand the cleaned ear of corn (free of all outer husk and inner silk) in the center of the bowl, widest part down (holding the ear in place with your nonworking hand). Position the straight (not serrated) blade of your (8-inch) chef's knife in a spot that will enable you to cut the corn off, leaving a little bit of the kernel still attached to the cob. Now, using your working hand, starting at the top of the cob, use a sawing motion, move the blade down the cob, releasing the kernels into the bowl. Continue, until all the kernels from all the cobs are in the bowl.

Wait--Don't throw away those "seemingly" empty corn cobs!
Remember when I instructed you to leave a little bit of the bottom of the corn kernels still attached to the cob? Well, that spot houses an incredibly yummy substance that I call "natural corn cream" and it's a great way to add a really soothing quality to sautéed fresh corn. (It's a healthier way to make "creamed corn," without needing to add cream.)

To get the corn cream out of the cobs, after you've released the kernels, place each cob over the bowl with one end pointed away from you. Place the blade of your chef's knife at the part of the cob closest to you, with the dull side angled away from you. Choke up on the handle and scrape down over the cob, dragging the blade down from one end of the cob to the other. Repeat this, while rotating the cob, always dragging the blade in that same direction. You'll see, with each motion, the thick white corn cream will ooze out of the cob and fall into the bowl of kernels.

Believe it or not, those cobs are STILL good for something!

Instead of throwing the cobs away (yet), you can simmer them in some defatted Chicken Stock or in water, embellished with some cut up aromatics (onions, carrots, celery, leeks, and parsley). Then, after simmering for about an hour, strain out the solids and you've got yourself an outrageously delicious corn stock to use in soup, to simmer rice, or drink it straight, piping hot, as a healing brew.

So, although I can't promise that you won't still need to use dental floss after eating corn, I can promise that you'll all absolutely love the recipe below.

Sautéed Fresh Corn
With Onions and Sweet Peppers and Natural Corn Cream

Yield: serves 10 to 12

This recipe features one of my favorite ways to prepare fresh corn! The corn kernels are sliced off their cobs and the creamy, delicate substance that I call "corn cream" is scraped from each cob into the kernels. Serve this crisp, colorful and soothing side dish with any grilled, broiled or roasted meat, poultry or fish (it's especially wonderful with lamb or chicken). And even when not serving a crowd, I usually prepare the entire amount and refrigerate the leftovers to throw into salads, to simmer in soup or as a colorful and textural addition to a rice pilaf.

Special Equipment:

• Sharp chef's knife (8 inches)
• 12-inch deep-sided skillet

Ingredients:
• 12 ears fresh corn, outer husks and all silk removed, or 1 pound frozen corn, unthawed
• 1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) butter, or more, as desired
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 large yellow onion, chopped
• 1 red or green bell pepper, seeded and chopped (you can add some seeded and minced jalapenos, if desired)
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf, Italian parsley or minced fresh chives or cilantro
• 1/2 cup heavy cream (only if using frozen corn)

1) To remove corn kernels from cobs: Stand the cob on its flat end and, beginning at the pointed top, run the blade of a sharp knife down the cob in a sawing motion. This will release the kernels so they fall onto your work surface. Avoid cutting into the cob with the knife. Instead, allow a small portion of the bottom of each kernel to remain attached to the cob. Scoop up the kernels using a pastry scraper and place them into a bowl.

2) To extract the corn cream: Scrape the milk from each cob by holding the cob so it rests over the edge of the bowl of corn. Position the blade of the knife on the cob so that the top (dull side) is tilted away from you and the sharp edge is toward you. Pull the blade (going away from you) down over the cob in a brisk, firm and repetitive motion. As the corn cream is released from the cob, it will fall into the bowl of corn. Discard empty cobs.

3) To sauté the vegetables and serve: Heat butter in a 12-inch, deep-sided skillet over medium heat and, when bubbling, add the chopped onions. Sauté until softened and very fragrant, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low, add the garlic and cook until the onions are just starting to turn golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the chopped red pepper and cook for another 3 minutes. Stir the corn with corn cream (or frozen corn with heavy cream) into the skillet and cook uncovered, stirring occasionally over low heat, until the corn is crisp tender and very hot, about 10 minutes.

4) To serve: Add salt and black pepper, to taste, along with the chopped herbs of your choice. If desired, for extra richness of flavor, stir in another 2 to 3 tablespoons of softened butter. Stir until the butter is just melted and the herbs have heated through. Serve hot.

Timing is Everything:


• The vegetables can be chopped 1 day ahead and refrigerated separately in well-covered bowls.
• Although corn should remain in their husks as long as possible, in a pinch, you can clean the corn and remove the kernels and corn cream as much as one day ahead (especially if using a super-sweet variety). Keep the bowl of corn well-covered and refrigerated since warmth encourages the natural sugar in corn to convert into starch, which adversely affects texture.

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Questions for Lauren Groveman's Kitchen:

Lauren Groveman recipes have been featured in many national magazines and local newspapers. Her books "The I love to Cook Book: Rediscovering the Joy of Cooking for Family and Friends" and "Lauren Groveman's Kitchen, Nurturing Food for Family and Friends" are available through Amazon.com. Lauren hosts an hour-long, "live" weekly radio show, Food Family & Home "Matters," on 1460 WVOX.

For in depth information on Lauren Groveman as a writer, teacher, TV & radio host, as well as her recipes and cooking tips visit her website at www.laurengroveman.com

Lauren is a Larchmont resident. She is happily married and blessed with three wonderful children.